That Burger Bar I Always Walked By: MAD in Belgrano

There was a burger joint here. And it looked pretty cool.  My recent visit to Argentina was just a bit overwhelming. It was a week full of “what if”‘s, “if only”‘s, and “well I’m glad I didn’t…”‘s. There were 1-in-a-million chance ex-boyfriend spottings and ghosts lurking around every corner. There were effeminate hissy fits from more recent flings and a dramatic,…

Pizza a la Parrilla at Morelia

I have the same type of love/hate relationship with Las Cañitas in Buenos Aires as with South Beach or LKF in Hong Kong. These are polished up neighborhoods designed to attract tourists and expats like moths to the neon-tinted flame. In each one there is usually at least one fake-ass “Tuscan Trattoria” with red and white checked, plastic tablecloths. There…

Comfortable and Nostalgic: Back at El Sanjuanino

My landlady in Argentina was often times like a mother to me, taking the place of my actual mama who was no longer just a T ride away. She’d sometimes become annoyed when I’d leave my room in disarray and she’d tell me (in front of friends) “Te engordaste. Se ve en tus brazos” when…

Cooking with Morcilla. Or Just Eating It Raw.

Raw morcilla, he said. I thought he was joking. He’s a man who is freaked out by meat that has to be chewed off bone. So….no chicken wings. He also doesn’t “do” garlic unless he is blissfully unaware of its presence in a dish. But uncooked blood sausage? No problem. I took his word when…

Gringas Eating Sourdough at Pain et Vin

At the beginning of my trip back to the Bee-Ay there was nothing I craved more than the traditional stuff I had subsisted on when I lived there. I wanted steaming hot empanadas, gooey provoleta sprinkled with oregano and the array of steaks and offal that make up any proper Argentine asado. At one point…

Another Choripán at Another Nameless Carrito in BsAs

I’ve been hungover in a variety of cities and have learned the perfect local cure in a handful of them. In Chile it’s a plate of chorrillana. In Hong Kong it’s a mango puree in Mongkok and char siu bao from the closest bakery. In Argentina it’s choripán. I’ve serenaded this thing, referring to it as the “king of…

Post-Kika Late Night at Sinior Shawarma

I received the following photo through a What’s App message sent at 2:30 a.m. a few nights ago. “I was a little drunk but now I feel good. Use the picture for the review you’re going to write about the shawarma place.” The shawarma place referred to is Sinior Shawarma, a Palermo Soho landmark situated…