The one with the cheese and meat juice oozing out.
The one without the crust, the one with most sauce.
The crispy, caramelized one. The one hardest to share.
That one.

As a child I used to sneak into the kitchen and skim the caramelized layers of cheese and sausage off the top of my mother´s potato gratin. With friends I ate the toppings off pizza, leaving the crust and doughy base behind. When offered a bite of someone´s sandwich I wait until both edges of the thing have been nibbled off and attack the soft exposed center where the fillings dangle out like the steamy entrails of freshly felled prey. When sharing fries I go exclusively for the thin, extra crunchy ones and ignore the beefier wedges altogether. Or I go for the one with most condiments or spices sprinkled on. I´ve always been particular about which bite of which dish I want, if not the whole thing. And the more I travel the more I find this concept applies to trying food in new regions.

When I go to the Dominican Republic, for example, I don´t just look for the “best seafood restaurant¨ because I don´t want mussels in white wine sauce on a touristy boardwalk with a guy playing an accordion and another peddling me packets of tissue paper. I care about how to track down That Best Bite of the DR. And it´s the same everywhere else. I seek out the bite that makes me feel part of a place, no matter how much of a tourist I may look like while eating it. That bite of chicharrón with icy cold Presidente beer in some roadside stall under the afternoon sun or that late-night bite of a local favorite sandwich with a morir soñando milkshake after a tad too much rum. That choripan in Argentina, that completo with guac in Chile, that frikandel in Amsterdam, that ıslak burger in Istanbul. That bite of toasted pain d’épices with butter on Christmas morning in France. That bite of cheek meat at a village pig slaughter in Hungary. That place, that bite I´ll remember as the best of my trip there.

That Best Bite.

Fish crudo

Tortellini al brodo at Osteria Broccaindosso in Bologna

Fresh stuff by NOLA

Tortelli All’affumicata at Da Leo in Lucca

Salmorejo at La Parisien in Cádiz

Cafe gourmand at Logis de la Cadene

Chicken on bed of corn at La Cagette in Bordeaux

Morcilla black sausage

Quail with raisins

Egg 5 ways in butternut squash soup at Logis de la Cadene

Lángos fried dough

Wine Service at Bodegas Nieto Senetiner

Bunyols de Vent

Patacó in the town of Alforja

She even makes a few lewd and hilarious double entendre’s that the boy doesn’t seem to be old enough to understand.

Pljeskavica and Šopska salata

Frituras, fried salami and plantains for breakfast

Midye Dolma, mussels stuffed with seasoned rice. Sold as streetfood.

Lamb roasted on metal cross

Slicing up Roman pizza

Green apple dessert at Logis de la Cadene

Ćevapčiči with Ajvar

Green gnocchi with cheese sauce

Pizza with Swiss chard, potato and mozzarella

Chef Humm’s NY-NY Tasting at Eleven Madison Park

One of the whole trinity of Argentine asado: costilleras

Sea Urchin at Mercado Central de Abastos in Cádiz

Salty sardine…

Turkish coffee

Fruit in Siena

Lahmacun, flatbread with spicy minced meat.

Typical asador outside River Plate stadium

Homemade foie gras prepared in salt

Beetroots

Chilling in San Gimignano

Lentil and couscous salad with eggplant, tomato and goat cheese at La Cagette in Bordeaux

Yaniqueque near the beach