A few weekends ago, Ben and I drove out to Arcachon to spend the night at the Thalazur Thalassothérapie Spa and Hotel: a much-needed pause from the stress of planning a destination wedding with “Level: High” difficulty logistical organization. We spent the afternoon soaking in the massive salt-water pool, taking turns roasting and steaming in…

In the town of Arcachon, on the southwestern coast of France, the air smells of the ocean. Victorian Arcachonnaise villas face the water, and the seafront promenade is bustling with the bourgeoisie of nearby Bordeaux, many of whom still remember when the place was undeveloped, rough land, lined with pine trees and oak. On the western side of…