Lamprey à la Bordelaise at Brasserie Le Noailles

“Elle connaît? Est-ce la première fois qu’elle en mange?” he asked my Frenchman with a half-assed nod in my direction. He wasn’t the best waiter, or even a very good one at all. But I get why he asked. “Oui, elle le connaît très bien,” came Ben’s answer. A lie but a well-placed one. When, on…

Dinner at the Wonderful Le Chien de Pavlov

I’m about three months overdue on an account of my evening at Le Chien de Pavlov, a jewelry-box-sized, quiet little brasserie specializing in creative French dishes prepared with market-fresh, seasonal ingredients. We caught our 9:00 pm reservation after a beer out on the terrace of Le Trou Duck around the corner, and sat to a…

Locavore Lovin’ at Belle Campagne

The counter menu at Belle Campagne demands your full attention. It’s a short selection of just 11 savory options, a cooler and more shareable complement to the full menu served upstairs. But each item on there requires careful consideration. Duck fat frites or frites soaked in meat jus? White asparagus or beetroot? Smoked trout or the catch…

A Fistful of Kebab at Coluche

There are many good kebab spots in Bordeaux and Coluche is considered one of the best. The place has been packed each time I’ve passed it, made even more popular by its corner location right on a vibrant plaza. Behind the counter is a simple salad station, two vertical rotisseries and a deep-fryer for French…

Oysters and Chill at La Capitainerie

On a sunny Saturday, beaux’s friends were in Bordeauxtown for a visit. We were looking for a chill spot for a bit of midday wine drinking and oyster binging, where we could catch up on the past few months and share stories about our new life here. La Capitainerie near Place du Palais fit the bill…

Lunch at Logis de la Cadène in Saint-Émilion

On a gorgeous an uncharacteristically sunny spring day some new friends and I headed out to wine country by way of Libourne to explore the landscapes of Saint-Émilion and Pomerol, and to taste some of this “Bordeaux wine” thing I’ve been hearing so much about lately. We stopped first in the town of Saint-Émilion a jewelry box…

Steak Saignant and a Bottle of Red at Lecarreau

New in town and eager to be in the know, Ben and I have been in explore mode the past few weekends. Our petites sorties en ville have revealed a wealth of little restaurants and bars, lofty terraces and kebab stands that we will one day become “ours” to frequent and recommend to visitors. For now the…