Marrow, Snails, Calf’s Head and Brain at Chez Paul

A lovely reunion of dear MBA friends took place in Paris this past February as we convened in la Capitale for Vinexpo / Wine Paris 2023. It also happened to be the eve of my birthday, albeit not a very special one, though I’d been told a few shots of something were in order. A…

Tacos & Cocktails at Candelaria

A mainstay of Le Marais is Candelaria, a brightly lit micro-taqueria with bomb dot com frozen margs and a relatively short menu of well-executed Mex/Tex-Mex favorites. Walk through the unmarked door next to the pint-sized kitchen and you arrive to a sleek and sexy speakeasy specialized in agave-based spirits. Before heading over to Little Red…

Calf’s Brain in Squid Ink Tempura at Les Enfants du Marché

In the bustling Marché des Enfants Rouges in Paris’s hip ‘n’ happening 3e is Les Enfants du Marché, a modest-looking market restaurant that is vibes vibes vibes on a weekend afternoon. While the setting suggests cheap and humble street food, a closer look at the (quite extensive) chalkboard menu reveals culinary creations worthy of a…

Frogs and Vin de Paille at Le Petit Sommelier

I frequently find myself at French train stations over an hour before my scheduled departure, driven there early by a groundless paranoia and an overwhelming sense of malaise. It’s weird. When it comes to airports, I’m cool as a cucumber. I’ve got the movements down, smooth, I know where to go and when. I know…

We Should Have Also Ordered the Crispy Pata at Double Dragon

I was buzzing with excitement as we passed in front of the Double Dragon sign, painted by hand in gorgeous green and gold on the restaurant’s crisp, clean glass window. We had rushed from Montparnasse, getting lost during our transfer in Châtelet (which is more like an escape room than a metro station) and fumbled…

‘Grammable Sandies at KERN

After a morning at the Louvre spent with Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo and Liberty Leading the People, we were hungry for a good sandwich, so I did a quick search and found KERN in the 9ème. There’s a cool vintage diner vibe at this casual eatery, where two ladies prepare photogenic sandwiches to what…

Brains, Sweetbreads and Pét-Nat at Clown Bar

I write this article from aisle seat #44 of wagon #6 aboard TGV INOUI 12268 speeding towards Montparnasse, where a trade show awaits me, coincidentally scheduled for the day of my 34th birthday. I’ve been going to Paris more frequently these days and feeling some kinda way about this city, its cozy bistros and boisterous…

Unpresumptuous, Delicious British at Rochelle Canteen

A cool but sunny Saturday afternoon in November found us exploring the East End, our rumbling bellies drawing us closer to Shoreditch for a 2pm reservation at Rochelle Canteen. I had seen the Reels and knew where the buzzer was. We arrived to the door marked “BOYS” surrounded by a Victorian era brick garden wall,…