Percebes, Navajas and Chef Creations at Abastos 2.0

Saintly and serious Santiago de Compostela was a cool gray on our second morning there. We toured the verdant Parque de Alameda and explored the magnificent Cathedral complex, around which the entire city was constructed. We peeked at scallop-shell-clad and visibly exhausted peregrinos tumbling dramatically to their hands and knees on the cobblestoned floors of…

Morcilla de Léon and Other Meaty Treats at Meson Jabugo

The city of Léon was a last-minute addition to our roadtrip to Galicia, a stop-over on the way back to shorten the drive. As we crossed the hilly wine country of Bierzo and the flat, red dessert landscape of Castilla y Léon, we had no idea what to expect of our next destination. We certainly…

Venezuelan Arepas at “El Budare” Bordeaux

A pint-sized Venezuelan joint named El Budare has opened its doors this week in my neighborhood and I couldn’t be happier about it. We met the very nice couple – Paula from Venezuela and French-Réunionese Florian – when we stuck our noses in to check the menu last weekend, as they were busy setting up.…

The Bao Buns at Mifan

It’s only mid-March and already “Sleeping Beauty” Bordeaux seems to be waking from her winter slumber, shaking off confinement, curfew and coronavirus like a bad dream. Despite 3 million currently infected in France and an excruciatingly slow start to the vaccine rollout, a 20°C sunny day will send hordes of Bordelais out to the Garonne…

Michelin-Starred Takeout: TentaziOni during COVID

Well, it finally happened. After 4 years spent living just 100 meters from TentaziOni, I finally decided I couldn’t survive another day without eating there. I had heard just about every one of my Italian friends praise the restaurant’s menu with a kind of passion they normally reserve for denouncing “pâte à la carbonara à…

“Bibi ce midi?” A Month of Lunch at Bibibap La Boca

I know I’m not alone in feeling this way. Unmotivated, lethargic, unhappy. Stuck in an enforced hibernation in my lonesome Bordeaux bubble with a soul-crushing curfew, starving for places and faces, both familiar and new. I sometimes re-read my old articles about the street food of Mongkok, the asados in Argentina, the 18-course tasting menu…