Sometimes all you need after 24 hours of sightseeing and indulging in the food and drink of city is a well-dressed salad, and that’s exactly what my friend and I got two of at Les Enfants Terribles on our second night in Lyon. We had woken up that morning in surprisingly good shape after painting…

When I was around 12 years old, my father’s French postdoc Lionel (the first French person I remember ever having met), told me “The best food in the world is in France, the best food in France is in Lyon and the best restaurant in Lyon is XYZ” (the latter I don’t recall). And indeed,…

One of my few regrets during a trip to Lyon in May was not ordering andouillette à la moutarde at a bouchon lyonnais. We ordered pretty much everything else… from frog legs and oysters in Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse to the oeufs en meurette and Bresse chicken at Daniel & Denise. But somehow…

Ah, the “bouchon Lyonnais.” Staunch and unwavering bastion of French culinary tradition, where some of the country’s most learnèd chefs devote themselves fully to the time-tested and eternal classics of French food, fiercely proud of their nation’s gastronomic heritage. Some of them rise to considerable prominence, as in the case of Chef Joseph Viola, whose…