One of my few regrets during a trip to Lyon in May was not ordering andouillette à la moutarde at a bouchon lyonnais. We ordered pretty much everything else… from frog legs and oysters in Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse to the oeufs en meurette and Bresse chicken at Daniel & Denise. But somehow this funky-smelling sausage (and one of my favorite French dishes) alluded me. I ended up remedying the issue upon my return to Lyon for a professional training in June and ordered it at Bouillon Baratte, a modern brasserie in the Opéra neighborhood of the Presqu’île.
Bouillon Baratte is a super friendly spot, as great for creative cocktails and wines by the glass as for its perfectly executed lyonnais classics. The menu features all the timeless favorites: l’oeuf mayo à la truffe (devilled eggs with truffle), terrine de campagne (pork terrine), os à moelle (bone marrow) and escargots. They have their own quenelle de brochet and tête de veau with sauce gribiche. But one of their most popular dishes is the andouillette beaujolaise from the renowned charcutier Maison Bobosse.
This sausage is made with a traditional recipe which combines finely chopped veal and pork stomach, seasoned with Dijon mustard and stuffed into a paper-thin casing. At Bouillon Baratte, it is crisped up in a pan and finished in the oven, then served in a mouthwatering mustard cream sauce with pretty little mustard seeds and strands of sweet onion adding a bit of texture. From the choice of sides I asked for the pommes de terre grenaille, which came nicely seasoned, and – this is very important – some bread with which to soak up every last drop of the mustard sauce. The andouillette itself was heavenly, the crispy casing tumbling forth loosely packed bits of steaming belly meat, smelling a bit of barnyard and poo, but only slightly so. The lumps of filling were tender and moist, with the mustard balancing or “cleaning up” the earthy, animal flavors. The cream sauce went nicely with the sizzling sausage, adding some smoothness and acidity to the crunchy, salty meat.
Another delicious meal with great wine and kind service in the epicenter of French gastronomy.