Lunch at Logis de la Cadène in Saint-Émilion

On a gorgeous an uncharacteristically sunny spring day some new friends and I headed out to wine country by way of Libourne to explore the landscapes of Saint-Émilion and Pomerol, and to taste some of this “Bordeaux wine” thing I’ve been hearing so much about lately. We stopped first in the town of Saint-Émilion a jewelry box…

Steak Saignant and a Bottle of Red at Lecarreau

New in town and eager to be in the know, Ben and I have been in explore mode the past few weekends. Our petites sorties en ville have revealed a wealth of little restaurants and bars, lofty terraces and kebab stands that we will one day become “ours” to frequent and recommend to visitors. For now the…

Lunch at Le Réfectoire

Denim, Converse, Boozy Brunch and BBQ are some of many American inventions that have become popular in France as of late. Hipster eats are widely available, everything from artisanal bagel sandwiches and bacon maple donuts to fish tacos and elaborate vegetable juices served in mason jars. And food trucks. They started popping up in Paris around 5…

Tasting Oysters at La Cabane de l’Aiguillon

In the town of Arcachon, on the southwestern coast of France, the air smells of the ocean. Victorian Arcachonnaise villas face the water, and the seafront promenade is bustling with the bourgeoisie of nearby Bordeaux, many of whom still remember when the place was undeveloped, rough land, lined with pine trees and oak. On the western side of…

Dinner at La Cagette in Bordeaux

On our way to explore the western bank of the Garonne River, we came across the Porte Cailhau, a shockingly beautiful 15th century gate studded with conical towers and ornate sculptures that rival the Disney Castle in its fairytale qualities. On one side you will find the exquisite waterfront and the Pont de Pierre bridge, gracefully lit…

A Homey Bowl of Cassoulet at La Mare aux Canards

It was our first getaway together from Barcelona; a two-hour drive up the coast to the border and an hour more upward and inward into France. He had kept our destination a secret until we rolled into the quaint town of Carcassonne, passing the beautifully lit Château Comtal en route to our inn. As I peered through the…

This and That at Café Bonaparte in Saint Germain des Prés

We strolled through Saint Germain des Prés and I daydreamed of a life there. The librairies, cafés, vintage cinemas seduced me and I pictured myself a Sorbonne girl running off to class with a backpack full of books ´n autres choses. Some day maybe… For lunch we chose a brasserie named Café Bonaparte, which faces a…

Certified French Classics at Le Mesturet

We found classic French fare at a bistro named Le Mesturet, somewhere between the tourist-jammed Louvre complex and the more business-oriented Opera quarter. It’s a typical old-school Parisian spot with a small bar near the entrance, an intimate dining room with tasteful wooden furniture, a green awning over its doors, monogrammed china. All that good stuff.…

A Messy and Delicious Kebab at Chez Hanna in Le Marais

On La Rue des Rosiers in the Le Marais district of Paris’s 4th arrondissement folks have plenty to be excited about. And around a place called Chez Hanna there’s a particularly palpable hush, like the chilled silence of a site where something important has happened. People sit on the curb or stand around with palmsful of pita overflowing with…

Sweet Things at Boulangerie de Mamie Jane in Gordes

And then there was a bakery called Boulangerie de Mamie Jane on Route Neuve in the center of Gordes. When sightseeing in small French towns it generally seems good practice to skip dessert at whatever restaurant one has lunch in and stop by a boulangerie afterwards instead. Chances are the restaurant’s desserts are brought over from a nearby bakery anyway; you will likely…