Rascassa at Sa Rascassa in Aiguafreda

Whole fish is the name of the game at Restaurante Sa Rascassa, situated on the precipe that hovers over the pebbled cove of Aiguafreda. You would be hard-pressed to find this place were it not for a sign on the main road, as it’s completely surrounded by the pine forest and left largely untouched. The…

Pica-Pica at Es Mos in Bégur

All the cool kidz in Barcelona summer in Costa Brava and by far the most in vogue town on the Catalan coast is beautiful, fabulous Bégur. Removed from the seafront just enough to filter out ease-seeking, beach-going families with kids, Bégur is nevertheless just a 10-minute drive from some of the most spectacular cove beaches…

Galician Octopus at La Chiruca in Pontevedra

It was tough to leave Pontevedra after just two nights spent there. More than any other stop on our Galician roadtrip, this city served as our home-base. From the rustic-chic comfort of our room at the Parador of Pontevedra, we set out on day trips to Vigo and the picturesque fisherman’s town of Combarro. We…

Percebes, Navajas and Chef Creations at Abastos 2.0

Saintly and serious Santiago de Compostela was a cool gray on our second morning there. We toured the verdant Parque de Alameda and explored the magnificent Cathedral complex, around which the entire city was constructed. We peeked at scallop-shell-clad and visibly exhausted peregrinos tumbling dramatically to their hands and knees on the cobblestoned floors of…

Morcilla de Léon and Other Meaty Treats at Meson Jabugo

The city of Léon was a last-minute addition to our roadtrip to Galicia, a stop-over on the way back to shorten the drive. As we crossed the hilly wine country of Bierzo and the flat, red dessert landscape of Castilla y Léon, we had no idea what to expect of our next destination. We certainly…

The Truffled Mortadella at BDJ in Madrid

The perfect free sample proved irresistible bait on a Friday afternoon in Madrid, reeling my friend and me into a bocadillo bar named BDJ. We knew what we wanted before sitting to see the menu: more of whatever was in that bite at the door. And that bite was of a sandwich called the Mortadella…