Narbona: Tranquility in a World Removed

Time stops. You can’t seem to remember what day it is and you don’t really care anyway. Your mind is shaken clear of deadlines, of meetings, of money and what fills the newly vacant space is an overwhelming appreciation for everything around you and a pointed attention to the detail in those things. Rays of…

A couple of chivitos in Uruguay

I don’t exactly know or care what went on in “El Mejillon” between a certain Mr. Cabrera and the Argentine broad who ordered goat and got a sandwich instead – if it is indeed what lead to the birth of the chivito then I’m sure they worked it out. Constantly tempted, when in Uruguay, to…

Chez Mister in La Barra

There’s this super-exclusive little place in La Barra I’ve been frequenting quite a lot lately that serves up deliciously comforting home-cooking in very small batches (for 2 plates and leftovers). The chef is a slightly erratic Argentine man with longish hair and sharp incisors who was first inspired to cook by the all-too-cool lisped Brit,…

An Especially Memorable Meal at Manantiales Fish Market

Parents meeting boy, a strange melange of accents and ideas, mutual concessions both forced and strangely natural, an exciting but stressful exchange to moderate. We needed a spot that would ease the excess anxiety like bread soaking up a spicy sauce. Fish Market Manantiales was the one.  Chill sidewalk terrace alongside a sloping road which leads…

Fried Marine Bites Under the Sun in Piriapolis

Piriapolis, a first stop in Uruguay on our drive from the Montevideo airport to Punta. Weird little beach-ville with a Niceoise boardwalk, a crumbling yet not THAT old hotel, some houses plucked out of Frankfurt. Beautiful blue water, soft white sand, towering hill in the backdrop and that painfully green, cattle-spotted Uruguayan countryside behind that.…

Fa fú: Cosas Ricas in Maldonado, Uruguay

Fa fú is a match-box-sized hole in the wall with a serious cult following, tucked away in a narrow alley in Maldonado. A place for body-conscious surfer bros and overworked Punta suits to get away from overpriced artesanal pastas and greasy milanesas and grab something healthier, cheaper and quicker (fast food–> fa fu, get it?)…