I received the following photo through a What’s App message sent at 2:30 a.m. a few nights ago. “I was a little drunk but now I feel good. Use the picture for the review you’re going to write about the shawarma place.” The shawarma place referred to is Sinior Shawarma, a Palermo Soho landmark situated…
After five days in Patagonia I was ready to enjoy the summer of the Western Hemisphere a bit closer to the Equator. I had come for, seen and conquered Perito Moreno. I had stood, mouth gape, paralyzed by the beauty of this end of the world. But the winds and cold were cramping my style…
America del Sur hostel in Calafate has a pretty phenomenal view of Lake Argentino. On mornings before glacier treks or mountain hikes, I would sit gazing through the lofty floor-to-ceiling windows that exposed a beautiful natural landscape within arm’s reach. Carbo-loading on complimentary hostel breakfast and plotting my expeditions on a trail map, I would struggle…
Between the glacier tekking, mountain climbing and sheep herding I also devoted some time to lounging around in “downtown Calafate.” I passed by the casino but did not go in. I walked through a feria of artesenal junk but did not buy anything. I visited the main square and stores that sold a variety of camping…
There are two dishes commonly associated with the Patagonia region of Argentina. The first is roasted lamb, the second: local trout. While I made no effort to pack “gear” sturdy enough to endure harsh glacial winds or hikes over rugged landscapes, I did look up what to eat weeks before the trip. It’s all about…
I arrived in Calafate without a single preconception. My expedition to the end of the world had been plotted out by my outdoorsy brother and his outdoorsier wife, who were planning to accompany me but ultimately canceled just a month before. A 1 hour cab ride to the international airport at 5 a.m. followed my first…
I was a little bit wobbly both in form and thought as I stepped out of my friend’s apartment in Belgrano into humidity and 85° degree late summer heat. I wore white capris and a sheer, lime-green sleeveless. Having only rarely glanced at my own skin during frigid cold winter months, I had forgotten how…
My first night in Buenos Aires found me in a crowded stadium, cheering along with River Plate fans as our boys in red and white assailed the Mendocino goal. I am almost notorious at this point for not owning a single sports fan jersey, a source of great and all-too-frequent shame to my friends at…
A rambunctious night lead to a morning of regrets and growling stomachs. While purses could not be un-lost and shots of vodka could not go un-taken, our hunger could in fact be alleviated, the right way. I woke up craving oysters for some reason, a gourmande hangover of sorts. I’m not sure slimy bivalves were exactly…
My birthday dinner this year took place at Estadio in the company of my best friend who came to visit, during and despite a snowstorm, to celebrate. I had intended to go Logan Circle/U Street hopping, but many of my go-to joints were closed for the evening due to inclement weather. Fortunately, Estadio welcomed us, as did…
That Best Bite 