A Couple of Steaks at Moelleuses et Persillées

For good beef in Bordeaux center there is a handful of restaurants I usually recommend – El National for the Argentine parilla vibe, Le Carreau for a more Bordelais touch, Ô QG for prime cuts cooked in a fireplace and L’Entrecôte… just kidding, L’Entrecôte sucks. But the most respected, most loudly lauded temple of beef…

Monkfish Cheeks at Le Grand Large in Cassis

Need a last-minute dinner reservation for 16 people in Cassis on a Saturday night in August? No, apparently it’s not impossible. On a recent stay at a villa in Provence with a good friend and her business school buds, we decided to have a dinner out one night as a change from the huge meals…

A Couple of Salads at Les Enfants Terribles

Sometimes all you need after 24 hours of sightseeing and indulging in the food and drink of city is a well-dressed salad, and that’s exactly what my friend and I got two of at Les Enfants Terribles on our second night in Lyon. We had woken up that morning in surprisingly good shape after painting…

Truffle-Shopping at Le Marché aux Truffes in Sarlat

December to February is truffle season in Périgord and each Saturday the Sarlat Truffle Market is abuzz with local producers selling their harvest to truffle-lovers from around France. These bumpy black bundles live a peaceful life buried underground in a mycorrhizal relationship with the roots of oak trees, until they are dug up by keen-nosed…

Duck Everything at Cabanoix et Châtaigne in Domme

We arrived in the picture-perfect village of Domme on a Sunday at 1pm-ish on our way back home from Périgord, with no reservation and no hope about the prospect of finding anything decent to eat for lunch. So many Sundays spent stranded in like-sized French villages have given us a gloomy outlook on this subject…

A Cozy Dinner at La Couleuvrine in Sarlat-la-Canéda

One eats well in the Périgord. This is especially true in the colder months, when one craves the hearty, nourishing ingredients for which the reason is best known. Duck and goose, their magrets, their foie, their rillettes and terrines. Garlic, potatoes, walnuts, nut cakes. Mushrooms of all kind and, of course, the king of mushrooms:…