A Cozy Dinner at La Couleuvrine in Sarlat-la-Canéda

One eats well in the Périgord. This is especially true in the colder months, when one craves the hearty, nourishing ingredients for which the reason is best known. Duck and goose, their magrets, their foie, their rillettes and terrines. Garlic, potatoes, walnuts, nut cakes. Mushrooms of all kind and, of course, the king of mushrooms:…

A Pastel de Nata at Pastéis de Belém

A while back, my father attended a neuroscience conference in Portugal and I joined him for some sight-seeing and a dinner in Lisbon. The morning after a fun night of catching up over bacalhau a minhota I dropped him off at the conference center and headed to Bélem to see the Padrão dos Descobrimentos, Jerónimos…

Lyonnais Specialties at Daniel & Denise

Ah, the “bouchon Lyonnais.” Staunch and unwavering bastion of French culinary tradition, where some of the country’s most learnèd chefs devote themselves fully to the time-tested and eternal classics of French food, fiercely proud of their nation’s gastronomic heritage. Some of them rise to considerable prominence, as in the case of Chef Joseph Viola, whose…

One Last Burgundy Lunch at Maufoux in Beaune

Named after the rue on which it can be found, just a stone’s throw from the Hospices de Beaune, is the restaurant Le Maufoux, the ‘tit bistro of Meursault institution Le Soufflot. Run by Chef Jean-Luc and his FOH side-kick Laurianne, this pint-sized eatery offers a rather reasonable lunch menu and an only slightly pared…

That Fried Chicken at La Lune in Beaune

Where to find the best fried chicken in Burgundy? At La Lune restaurant in Beaune. I’m not sure how my friend found out about this treasure of a place, but we booked a few days in advance and arrived for a late-night snack, after drinks at Le Rouge à Lèvres bar, on a Tuesday night…

A Captivating Meal at Ma Cuisine in Beaune

Young, hopeful and totally carefree is how we felt as we zipped down the A6 towards the vineyards of the Côte-d’Or in our Burgundy-red Fiat 500. A cherished friend I had not seen for 3 years at the wheel, cool and at ease, and surprisingly so for a person who had not driven stick for…

Haddock aux Epinards at Les Vapeurs in Trouville

Just across the River Touques from the city of Deauville, in the Calvados department of Normandy, France is the picturesque port city of Trouville-sur-Mer, dubbed “the 21st arrondissement of Paris” by Vitamin D deficient Parisiens et Parisiennes who flood its long, sandy beaches each summer. During the winter months, the vibe is a bit more…

A Seasonal Menu with Irish Flare at Café Eriu

Another neighborhood favorite of mine is Cafe Eriu, a delightful little restaurant on Rue Fondaudege serving up seasonal cuisine with an Irish twist. A tastefully designed coffee bar clad in dark green tile, a homey dining area, an open kitchen in the back. Brunch is great here, with both sweet and salty options. Lunch is…