Piriapolis, a first stop in Uruguay on our drive from the Montevideo airport to Punta. Weird little beach-ville with a Niceoise boardwalk, a crumbling yet not THAT old hotel, some houses plucked out of Frankfurt. Beautiful blue water, soft white sand, towering hill in the backdrop and that painfully green, cattle-spotted Uruguayan countryside behind that.…
Usually when one gets to know a city for the first time, they look at a map, find something that says “old quarter,” find a museum to go to and then circumnavigate, find a plaza or port to explore and have a sitting-down cigarette and a coffee/beer in. Perhaps a cobblestoned shopping street to stroll…
Although I personally have grown quite weary of the very concept of the milanesa, having ordered one too many grease-bombs that left me curled up in bed, whispering little-league-coach-like encouragement to my digestive system (“Come on little fellas, we can do it! Let’s take ’em out of here!”), I had to put one in front of…
Morcilla is where most U.S.ers draw the line in the context of “sketchy” meat parts, seso is where many Argentines do. I’m talking about the young, cool Argentine, the overpriced Vie Bohème rag wearing portenos, long-haired collectors of neon platform Birkenstocks and identical Prune bags. Mention eating brain for dinner to these painfully hip youngsters and they’ll…
On nights when I don’t want to treck it to Palermo but still want to partake in some low-key merriment here in Recoleta, I usually go for El Sanjuanino. There are many reasons why it is my dive of choice: 1) a pinguino (nifty penguin-shaped porcelain jugs which can hold an always-surprisingly amount of crappy…
Fa fú is a match-box-sized hole in the wall with a serious cult following, tucked away in a narrow alley in Maldonado. A place for body-conscious surfer bros and overworked Punta suits to get away from overpriced artesanal pastas and greasy milanesas and grab something healthier, cheaper and quicker (fast food–> fa fu, get it?)…
This place has quickly become one of my favorite meat stops in Buenos Aires because it is real in a way that La Cabrera just isn’t. The ambience is simple, honest and unpretentious. The service is good – surprisingly good – super fast and friendly for this city and especially for a traditional, 4-hour-dinner parrilla. The…
If you haven’t been to Casa Mun so far, well, your ex was right and there is definitely something wrong with you. If you haven’t been yet this month… That’s understandable, we all have stuff to do. But go! His new location, now in the heart of Palermo, is wonderful, with a spacious and airy…
Speaking of awesome pizza places in BsAs, family-owned and proudly historic El Banchero definitely makes the list. A seriously spacious cafeteria on the corner of dusty, deserted Admiral Brown and Suarez which no doubt fills up (or, at least, USED to fill up, in its glory days) with roaring-drunk and joyous Boca Junior fans of all generations…
I go there for the mood more than anything else. Gigantic parlor with walls decked out in aging, charmingly dusty posters of stuff your Argentine grandparents were into when they were your age, big tables full of noisy folks happily chatting and chowing, a long standing-bar for those who just want to grab a bite…
That Best Bite 