Truffle-Shopping at Le Marché aux Truffes in Sarlat

December to February is truffle season in Périgord and each Saturday the Sarlat Truffle Market is abuzz with local producers selling their harvest to truffle-lovers from around France. These bumpy black bundles live a peaceful life buried underground in a mycorrhizal relationship with the roots of oak trees, until they are dug up by keen-nosed…

Duck Everything at Cabanoix et Châtaigne in Domme

We arrived in the picture-perfect village of Domme on a Sunday at 1pm-ish on our way back home from Périgord, with no reservation and no hope about the prospect of finding anything decent to eat for lunch. So many Sundays spent stranded in like-sized French villages have given us a gloomy outlook on this subject…

A Cozy Dinner at La Couleuvrine in Sarlat-la-Canéda

One eats well in the Périgord. This is especially true in the colder months, when one craves the hearty, nourishing ingredients for which the reason is best known. Duck and goose, their magrets, their foie, their rillettes and terrines. Garlic, potatoes, walnuts, nut cakes. Mushrooms of all kind and, of course, the king of mushrooms:…

A Pastel de Nata at Pastéis de Belém

A while back, my father attended a neuroscience conference in Portugal and I joined him for some sight-seeing and a dinner in Lisbon. The morning after a fun night of catching up over bacalhau a minhota I dropped him off at the conference center and headed to Bélem to see the Padrão dos Descobrimentos, Jerónimos…

Lyonnais Specialties at Daniel & Denise

Ah, the “bouchon Lyonnais.” Staunch and unwavering bastion of French culinary tradition, where some of the country’s most learnèd chefs devote themselves fully to the time-tested and eternal classics of French food, fiercely proud of their nation’s gastronomic heritage. Some of them rise to considerable prominence, as in the case of Chef Joseph Viola, whose…

One Last Burgundy Lunch at Maufoux in Beaune

Named after the rue on which it can be found, just a stone’s throw from the Hospices de Beaune, is the restaurant Le Maufoux, the ‘tit bistro of Meursault institution Le Soufflot. Run by Chef Jean-Luc and his FOH side-kick Laurianne, this pint-sized eatery offers a rather reasonable lunch menu and an only slightly pared…